八月中旬的南英格兰，有几天非常炎热，没有装备空调的室内仿佛蒸笼一般，所以我决定去东南肯特郡的海边去游览历史文化名城坎特伯雷（基督教进入英伦三岛的起点）和英国距离欧洲大陆最近的一座海港城-多弗尔，去探索这两座分别为宗教文化上与地理上的英国之门，领略浓郁的近海风情。从中学的历史与文学课本上，我最初对于英国文学与语言的了解就来自于《坎特伯雷故事集》，它被广泛认为是现代通俗英语定型的标志，里面的一些诙谐而又通俗易懂的故事展现了一幅宽广的社会生活图景，从小就让我对这里充满了好奇与兴趣。所以在计划这次短途旅行前我并没有多想，直接就把这里作为我的目的地。

In mid-August, South England was very hot for a few days. The room without air conditioning was like a steamer, so I decided to go to the Southeast Kent to visit the historical and cultural city of Canterbury (the starting point for Christianity to enter the British Isles), explore the British religious and cultural gates, and appreciate the rich coastal customs. From the history and literature textbooks of middle school, my initial understanding of English literature and language came from “The Canterbury Tales”, which is widely regarded as a sign of the shaping of the modern popular English. It contains some humorous and easy-to-understand stories. It shows a broad picture of the British social life, which has made me curious and interested in it since I was a child.

从萨里郡到坎特伯雷没有直达的火车，需要先北上伦敦，在滑铁卢火车站Sharing Cross转到滑铁卢东站，然后换乘向东一直开去的火车，前后历时约三个多小时才抵达坎特伯雷火车站。

There is no direct train from Surrey to Canterbury. You need to go north to London first, then walk to Waterloo East Station through Sharing Cross, and then changed to a train that goes east. It took about three hours before arriving at Canterbury station.

坎特伯雷是罗马天主教会在英国最早的落脚点，现为圣公会实际领袖坎特伯雷大主教驻锡之地。坎特伯雷座堂及圣奥斯定隐修院等已被联合国列入世界文化遗产。因此也成为英国最受欢迎的旅游城市之一。之前很早看书就了解到坎特伯雷的历史很大程度反应了英国历史的演进，不同的民族来到这里定居，并最终形成了盎格鲁-撒克逊民族。坎特伯雷最早是不列颠人（凯尔特人）聚集，名为“*Durou̯ernon”这个词源自于古不列颠语词“*duro-”意为要塞“u̯erno-”。公元1世纪罗马人入侵英伦三岛，占领这里之后改为“Durovernum Cantiacorum”。后来这里又成为朱特人聚居地，此时才改名Canterbury，而这个词则是来自古英语Cantwareburh（肯特人的要塞）。在英国的几年里，我发现英格兰南部很多地方地名都以“bury”结尾，比如Salisbury, Newbury, Amesbury等，可能都源于和坎特伯雷一样的历史背景。 597年肯特王国皈依基督教，坎特伯雷的圣奥古斯丁在此城市成立主教教座，而他本人也成为第一任坎特伯雷大主教。14世纪乔叟的《坎特伯雷故事集》亦以到此处朝圣为故事背景。

Canterbury is the earliest foothold of the Roman Catholic Church in the United Kingdom. It is now the home of the Archbishop of Canterbury, which is the actual leader of the Anglican Church. In Canterbury, now Canterbury Cathedral and St. Augustine’s Monastery have been listed as World Cultural Heritage by the United Nations. Therefore, it makes Canterbury become one of the most popular tourist towns in the UK. I read a book many years ago and learned that Canterbury’s history largely reflects the evolution of British history. Different peoples came here to settle down and eventually formed the Anglo-Saxon nation. Canterbury was the first place where the primitive British (Celtic) gathered, named “*Durou̯ernon”. This word comes from the ancient British word “*duro-” meaning fortress “u̯erno-“. The Romans invaded the British Isles in the first century AD, and after occupying here, it was changed to “Durovernum Cantiacorum”. Later, it became a settlement of the Jutes, and it was renamed Canterbury at this time, and the word came from Old English Cantwareburh (Kent fortress). In the few years in the UK, I found that many places’ name in southern England end with “bury”, such as Salisbury, Newbury, Amesbury, etc., which may all come from the same historical background like the Canterbury. The Kingdom of Kent converted to Christianity in 597. St. Augustine of Canterbury established the bishop’s seat in this city, and he himself became the first Archbishop of Canterbury. In the 14th century, Chaucer’s “Canterbury Tales” is also based on the pilgrimage here.

和吉尔福德作为伦敦都市圈的一个城镇不同，坎特伯雷给我的第一印象就是它的古朴，优美和浓厚的历史文化背景。坎特伯雷整体来说地势平坦，没有那么多上坡下坡路，可以让人放松地在城区里漫步。在坎特伯雷，我花了大概一天半的时间游览了Westgate gardens & Tower, 坎特伯雷画廊及图书馆 The Beauty House of Art & Knowledge,坎特伯雷大座堂，圣奥古斯丁修道院遗址，以及罗马博物馆。

Unlike Guildford as a town in the London metropolitan area, Canterbury’s first impression of me is its simplicity, beauty and strong historical and cultural background. Canterbury is generally very flat, and there are not so many uphills and downhills, so you can relax and stroll around the city. In Canterbury, I spent about a day and a half touring Westgate gardens & Tower, Canterbury Gallery and Library (The Beauty House of Art & Knowledge), Canterbury Cathedral, St. Augustine Abbey ruins, and the Roman Museum.

Westgate花园和城门瞭望塔 Westgate gardens & Tower

从坎特伯雷火车站沿着大街一直走向左转，很快就能够看到一个像城堡一样的地标性建筑，建筑非常庞大壮观。旁边有一条小河，受这里平坦地形影响，水流平缓，有很多游客和兴趣爱好者在这里泛舟。河流两边的区域已经被开发成了开放式公园，一个非常让人放松的地方，很多人在公园里漫步。游客可以沿着河边散步，坐在旁边的任何长椅上，或者坐在草地或岩石上休息一下，许多人也在这里遛狗。

Walk along the main street from the Canterbury Railway Station, turn left very shortly, and soon you can see a magnificent landmark building like a castle. The building looks very large and spectacular and there is a small river flow through next to it. Affected by the flat terrain, the water flow is slow. There are many tourists and hobbyists rafting here. The areas on both sides of the river have been developed into open parks that enable it being a very relaxing place to go and chill out or to take a nice stroll in the park. You can walk along the river and rest on any of the benches that are spaced alongside or just sit down on the grass or rocks and chill out. You can also have a run around (if you are a kid or an enthusiastic adult) and dogs on the lead are allowed as well. its a very beautiful place to go and visit and there is something for everyone to enjoy. You can even paddle with your feet in the water if you feel up to it.

这座石门又很悠久的历史。坎特伯雷约公元300年左右被罗马人筑墙建设。这一直是从东南海岸通往伦敦伦敦最重要的大门，因为它是到伦敦和肯特大部分地区的主要通道。目前的塔楼建设于中世纪，于1380年左右重建。在诺曼人征服南英格兰时这里曾有一个大门，据认为是罗马人建设的遗迹。从后期的盎格鲁撒克逊时代开始，石门的顶上都被安装了圣十字架被改造成教堂，但教堂和大门都在1379年被拆除。大主教西蒙·萨德伯里Simon Sudbury在他于1381年的农民起义中去世之前对其进行了重建。1648年1月在圣诞节骚乱之后，议员烧毁了这座城市大门的所有木质门。它们全部在1660年被替换，但是它们在18世纪末被摧毁。后来这里被改作成了监狱，直到1775年，监狱的门口都有一个笼子，允许某些囚犯乞求施舍并与路人交谈。

The Westgate castle has a really long history. Canterbury was walled by the Romans around 300 AD. This has been consistently the most important of the city’s gates as it is the London Road entrance and the main entrance from most of Kent. The present towers are a medieval replacement of the Roman west gate, rebuilt around 1380. There was a gate here at the time of the Norman conquest, which is thought to have been Roman. From late Anglo-Saxon times, it had the Church of the Holy Cross on top, but both church and gate were dismantled in 1379, and the gate was rebuilt by Archbishop Simon Sudbury before he died in the Peasants’ Revolt of 1381. In January 1648, after the Christmas Day riot, Parliamentarians burnt down all the wooden doors of the city’s gates. They were all replaced in 1660, but these replacements were removed at the end of the eighteenth century. Until 1775 there was a grated cage in the prison gateway, where certain prisoners were allowed to beg for alms and speak with passers-by.

坎特伯雷大座堂 Canterbury Cathedral

坎特伯雷大座堂是我自从来到英国后所见过的规模最大的座堂，相信每一个到此参观的游客都会被它的规模所震撼。从正门进入需要穿越礼品店和广场便可进入教堂。

Canterbury Cathedral is the largest cathedral I have seen since I came to the UK. I believe that every tourist who visits here will be shocked by its massive scale. To enter from the main entrance, you need to cross the gift shop and square to enter the church.

英国著名诗人奥登之所以把坎特伯雷大教堂比喻为“灵魂的巨轮”，是因为这座建筑承载了太多的历史文化积淀。据史料记载，坎特伯雷在公元43年罗马人入侵前已非常繁荣，与比利时和其他欧洲国家都有密切的贸易往来。据说圣马丁教堂便是建于这个时代。公元597年，来自罗马的圣安德鲁修道院院长奥古斯丁，以圣马丁教堂为根据地宣扬基督教义，并由此建造了圣奥古斯丁修道院和坎特伯雷大教堂，这三座宗教建筑为英国的基督教的发展奠定了基础。

The reason why the famous British poet Oden compared Canterbury Cathedral to the “great wheel of the soul” is because this building carries too much historical and cultural accumulation. According to historical records, Canterbury was very prosperous before the Roman invasion in 43 AD and had close trade relations with Belgium and other European countries. It is said that St. Martin’s Church was built in this era. In 597 AD, Augustine, the abbot of St. Andrew’s Abbey from Rome, used St. Martin’s Church as a base to preach Christianity and built St. Augustine’s Abbey and Canterbury Cathedral. These three religious buildings laid the foundation for the development of Christianity in the United Kingdom. basis.

坎特伯雷教堂（Canterbury Cathedral）是英国最古老、最著名的基督教建筑之一，位于英国东南的肯特郡郡治坎特伯雷。它是英国圣公会首席主教坎特伯雷大主教的主教座堂，坎特伯雷大主教还是普世圣公宗的精神领袖。教堂的正式名称是“坎特伯雷基督教堂和大主教教堂（Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Christ at Canterbury）。教堂本身已被列为世界遗产。公元597年，传教士奥古斯汀受教皇的委派，从罗马赴英国传教。他在四十名修士的伴随下，来到作为撒克逊人的肯特王国都城的坎特伯雷。当时的国王是个异教徒，但王后原是法兰克公主，信仰基督教。在王后的帮助下，奥古斯丁在这里站稳了脚跟，成为第一位坎特伯雷大主教，并把基督教传播到整个英格兰。因此，在英格兰，坎特伯雷被人们形象地比喻为基督教信仰的摇篮。 当时，肯特君主艾塞尔伯特国王正好与基督徒贝莎结婚。不知道艾塞尔伯特国王是否是受他妻子影响，他允许奥古斯丁在坎特伯雷东边的城墙外修建一座修道院。艾塞尔伯特国王下令这个教堂要成为“一座显赫的教堂，致力于保佑使徒彼得和保罗，而且会赠予它无数的财宝。”(“becoming splendour, dedicated to the blessed apostles Peter and Paul, and endowed it with a variety of gifts”）这段修道院修建的历史由14世纪的一位史学家威廉·索恩记录了下来。这块区域原本有三个教堂，分别是纪念圣徒潘克拉斯、圣徒彼特和圣徒保罗。撒克逊人将纪念圣徒潘克拉斯的教堂保持至今，而另外两座教堂被诺曼人重建合成了一座建筑。最主要的原因是这个修道院右边是肯特国王和坎特伯雷大主教墓地。

Canterbury Cathedral (Canterbury Cathedral) is one of the oldest and most famous Christian buildings in the UK. It is located in Canterbury in the county of Kent in southeast England. It is the Cathedral of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Archbishop of the Anglican Church. The Archbishop of Canterbury is also the spiritual leader of the universal Anglican. The official name of the church is “Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Christ at Canterbury”. The church itself has been listed as a World Heritage Site. In 597 AD, the missionary Augustine was appointed by the Pope to go from Rome to British missionary. He was accompanied by forty monks to Canterbury, the capital of the Saxon Kingdom of Kent. The king was a pagan, but the queen was originally a Frankish princess who believed in Christianity. With the help of the queen, Augustine was in It has gained a firm foothold here, becoming the first Archbishop of Canterbury and spreading Christianity throughout England. Therefore, in England, Canterbury is vividly compared to the cradle of the Christian faith. At that time, King Esselbert, the monarch of Kent, happened to be married to Christian Bessa. It is not known whether King Esselbert was influenced by his wife. He allowed Augustine to build a monastery outside the city walls east of Canterbury. King Esselbert ordered this church to become “a prominent church dedicated to blessing the apostles Peter and Paul, and will give it countless treasures.” (“becoming splendor, dedicated to the blessed apostles Peter and Paul, and endowed it with a variety of gifts”) The history of the construction of this monastery was recorded by a historian William Thorne in the 14th century. There were originally three churches in this area, commemorating Saint Pancras, Saint Peter, and Saint Paul. The Saxons kept the church commemorating Saint Pancras to this day, while the other two churches were rebuilt by the Normans into one building. The main reason is that to the right of this monastery is the cemetery of King Kent and the Archbishop of Canterbury.

1070年这座大教堂动工重建，后来又经历了不断的续建和扩建，其中中厅建于1391年到1405年间，南北耳堂建于1414年到1468年，三座塔楼也分别建于不同时期。高大而狭长的中厅和高耸的中塔楼及西立面的南北楼表现了哥特建筑向上飞拔升腾的气势，而东立面则表现出雄浑淳厚的诺曼风格。教堂东端，设有一个巨大的地下室，用以纪念圣托马斯。亨利四世、爱德华三世之子以及百年战争中驰骋疆场威震法兰西的黑太子等名人也都安葬在教堂里。这里还陈列着他们用过的盔甲、盾牌和其它兵器。

The reconstruction of the cathedral started in 1070, and it has undergone continuous expansion. The central hall was built between 1391 and 1405, the north and south transepts were built from 1414 to 1468, and the three towers were also built in different periods. The tall and narrow central hall and the towering central towers, as well as the north and south buildings on the west façade, show the upward momentum of Gothic architecture, while the east façade shows a strong Norman style. At the east end of the church, there is a huge basement to commemorate St Thomas. Celebrities such as Henry IV, the son of Edward III, and the black prince who fought the battlefield of France during the Hundred Years’ war were also buried in the church. The armors, shields, and other weapons they used are also displayed here.

圣奥古斯丁修道院St Augustine’s Abbey Heritage

圣奥古斯丁修道院建于公元598年，是目前英国留存到现在最古老的教堂之一。罗马教皇Gregory I于公元597年时派遣圣奥古斯丁到英国宣扬天主教，在肯特国王Ethelbert的允诺下，圣奥古斯丁得以于皇宫城墙外建一座教堂，供教徒敬拜之用，三间由木材、燧石、砖块及瓦片组成的萨克逊式小教堂就成为此地最早的建筑。北部的诺曼民族入侵后，便将原来的三间小教堂改建成一座外部雄伟、内部装潢精美的石头建筑。部分雕刻及布满绘画的墙壁片段目前保留在入口处的博物馆。一直到公元1500年，教堂不断增建，教士们也不断增加，据说当时的图书馆中有2000多本书，其中不少是出自此教堂内教士之手。公元1538年7月30日，这个教区改成英国国教，并听从亨利八世命令，开始长达15年的破坏。部份教堂被改成皇宫，以作为亨利八世的第四任妻子─法国来的安女王嫁到英国的中途下榻处。

St. Augustine’s Abbey was built in 598 AD and is currently one of the oldest churches in the UK. Pope Gregory I sent Saint Augustine to England to preach Catholicism in 597 AD. With the promise of King Ethelbert of Kent, Saint Augustine was able to build a church outside the palace walls for worshipers to worship. The three rooms consist of wood, flint, The Saxon-style chapel composed of bricks and tiles became the earliest building here. After the Norman people in the north invaded, they converted the original three small churches into a majestic stone building with a majestic exterior and beautiful interior. Part of the carved and painted wall fragments are currently preserved at the entrance of the museum. Until 1500 AD, churches continued to be built, and the number of priests continued to increase. It is said that there were more than 2,000 books in the library at that time, many of which were written by the priests in the church. On July 30, 1538 AD, the parish was converted to the Anglican Church, and he obeyed Henry VIII’s order to begin the 15-year destruction. Part of the church was converted into a royal palace to serve as the fourth wife of Henry VIII, Queen Ann from France, to marry to the UK halfway.

12世纪时，坎特伯雷发生了上述亨利二世与托马斯·贝克特之间的矛盾，王室和教会斗争最终导致大主教圣托马斯·贝克特以身殉教。他的精神受到人们的崇敬，传说他的遗物还具有治愈疾病的神奇功能。从此以后的数百年间，前来坎特伯雷朝圣的人们遍及全欧各地，坎特伯雷大教堂的宗教地位大大提高。而这个故事也一直为人们津津乐道，传颂于诗歌、小说、戏剧及电影中。亨利八世在位时，修道院被皇室拆毁，并由此衰落下去。

In the 12th century, the aforementioned contradiction between Henry II and Thomas Beckett occurred in Canterbury. The struggle between the royal family and the church eventually led to the martyrdom of Archbishop St. Thomas Beckett. His spirit is revered by people, and it is said that his relics also have the magical function of curing diseases. In the hundreds of years since then, people who came to Canterbury for pilgrimage have spread all over Europe, and the religious status of Canterbury Cathedral has been greatly improved. And this story has always been talked about by people, extolled in poems, novels, dramas, and movies. During the reign of Henry VIII, the monastery was demolished by the royal family and declined.